February 5, 2011 (Final Day in Hopkins Town: Part 2)

As promised, this blog entry will provide you with a little basic information and standard terminology relating the art of sailing and some additional background about the Hobie Cat company and its founder. In sailing, it is helpful to understand what sailors call the "points of sail" --sometimes called sailing positions-- which relate to the angle between a sailboat's heading and the direction of the wind. There are three basic courses: 'beating' (when the wind is from straight ahead or the front);  'reaching' (when the wind is coming from the side); and 'running' (when the wind is coming from the rear or "astern".

When sailing on a "beat", the boat is as close to the “eye of the wind” as possible (about 45 degrees). The mainsail is pulled in, with the boom slightly over the transom. If the boat is pointed too close or high to the wind, the forward part of the sail will “luff” and flutter, causing a loss in speed. Progress when sailing "against" the wind or "windward"  is done by “tacking”-- changing the direction of the boat from one side of the wind to the other. The boat is “close-hauled” on the “port tack” when the wind is coming from the left, and is close-hauled on the “starboard tack” when the wind is coming from the right.The boat is on a reach when the wind is “abeam”-- or at a 90 degree angle. If sailing on a reach, you are at an angle between close-hauled and running. The sail is out at about 45 degrees, making it one of the most pleasant (and most efficient) ways to sail. When running, or sailing "with" the wind, the wind is blowing from astern, and the sail is out at 90 degrees. Just to complicate things a little more, there are intermediate points of sailing. These are: · close reach (which is between a "beat" and a "reach"); and · broad reach (which is between a "reach" and a "run") It's a good idea to become familiar with these points of sail and how the wind acts on the sails. If you do, you will always know how to “trim” your sails, and hopefully make it to your destination.

Changing Direction · In order to get anywhere, you also have to know how to turn the boat and change course. There are basically two maneuvers that let you do that. To reverse the course you can do a “come about” --which is relatively slow since the bow passes through the “eye of the wind”. During a come about the skipper calls out ready about, and then “hard-a-lee” since the tiller is being pushed to the leeward side of the boat. The boat turns into the wind, and the sail, the skipper, and some of the crew change sides.    Another way to turn, is a faster maneuver called a ”jibe”. This is where the back of the boat turns across the wind. Since the wind is behind the boat, the sail flies from one side to another. You have to be careful to control the sail during a jibe, making communication especially important between the skipper and the crew. The commands for a jibe are; "ready to jibe", and "jibe-ho"!

A catamaran is a type of multihulled boat or ship consisting of two hulls (or "vakas") joined by some structure, the most basic being a frame, formed of "akas". Catamarans can be sail- or engine-powered. Catamarans are a relatively recent introduction to the design of boats for both leisure and sport sailing, although they have been used since time immemorial among the "paravas"-- a fishing community in the southern coast ofTamil Nadu, India, and independently in Oceania, where Polynesian catamarans (outrigger canoes) allowed seafaring Polynesians to settle the world's most far-flung islands. In recreational sailing, catamarans, and multihulls in general, had been met by a degree of skepticism from Western sailors accustomed to more "traditional" monohull designs, mainly because multihulls were based on, to them, completely alien and strange concepts, with balance based on geometry rather than weight distribution. However, the catamaran has arguably become the best design for fast ferries, because their speed, stability and large capacity are valuable.

Hot Shot Hobie Catters Can Do This!

A Hobie Cat is a small sailing catamaran manufactured by the Hobie Cat Company. Begun as a manufacturer of surf boards in the late 1950s, Hobie (named after Hobie Alter, the company's founder) began manufacturing catamaran sailboats in the late 1960s and has become the largest manufacturer of small catamarans in the world. Today, Hobie's line of products ranges from surf boards to catamaran sailboats to kayaks, though the Hobie Cat Company is most famous around the world for its catamarans. Hobie also designed a very successful monohull, the Hobie 33.

After sailing on the world's first ocean-going catamaran, the Manu Kai, Alter patented the idea. In 1967, he designed the Hobie 14 Catamaran. Alter wanted to make a boat that could be easily launched into the surf. In 1969, Hobie released the Hobie 16, the most popular catamaran ever and the most competitive catamaran class in the world. Over 100,000 Hobie Cats are sailing around the world. The Hobie 18 in 1976, Hobie 17 in 1985, Hobie 21 in 1987, Hobie 18SX in 1989, Hobie 17 Sport in 1990, Hobie 20 in 1991, Hobie 21 Sport Cruiser in 1992, Hobie Wave in 1994, Hobie TriFoiler in 1995, the Hobie Getaway in 2000, then the Hobie Bravo in 2002. More Recently Hobie has started making glider RC planes.

The Hobie 18
Many people consider the Hobie 18 the quintessential “beach cat.” The Hobie 18 was designed to be not only fast but also rugged. It is designed to be sailed by a crew of two, but can easily carry four passengers when cruising. Experienced sailors can sail the Hobie 18 solo. Unlike the smaller Hobie 14 and 16, the Hobie 18 uses a symmetrical hull design. Although this design gives the 18 a speed advantage, it requires the use of daggerboards when sailing close-hauled or reaching to prevent slipping. The typical configuration for the Hobie 18 is with both a main sail and a jib. The jib on the 18 is set up on a rolling/furling system that wraps the jib around the forestay when it isn’t needed. A double trapeze system is also standard equipment on the Hobie 18. Optionally the Hobie 18 may be equipped with wing seats (similar to the 17). Wings were available on the Hobie 18 in two fashions. The shorter wing "spanned" from the front to rear crossbar on the Hobie 18 Magnum, while the Hobie 18SX sported even longer wings. These wings reached aft to the stern and forward approximately 20 inches ahead of the front crossbar. Additionally, the SX model had a mast approximately 19 inches taller and high aspect mylar sails. Wings of both types, magnum and SX, are in much demand today due to the added comfort and space provided. They add about 40 pounds. Much to the dismay of many Hobie enthusiasts, the Hobie 18 is currently no longer produced. Length= 18', Beam= 8', Mast = 28' 1" (SX version is 29' 6.5") Sail = 240 sq ft (22 m²). Weight = 400 lb (180 kg) Hobie 18 Magnum Wing seats (mid 80's style) add 39 lb (18 kg).

February 5, 2011 (Final Day in Hopkins Town: Part 1)

Saturday February 5 was yet another sunny and beautiful day in Belize. After a wonderful one hour run on the beach I had to walk past a group of about twenty locals (about 90% women) who had apparently been partying all night in the "park" near "downtown" Hopkins.

Lovely "Downtown" Hopkins Town Again!

These were apparently the folks I had heard making noise throughout the previous evening. I asked them if they ever went to sleep and they said "no". I looked around to see if there were any tents (or anything else) for sleeping and there were not. Several of them told me they were from Belize City and they were having a family reunion in Hopkins. A couple of the ladies lured me into their lair and started practically having their way with me. I asked them if they were ever going to get any sleep, and one of them said she would like to come to my room and sleep there! At this point, I quickly slipped away for an important "meeting" and told them I would be back. I snuck away and weaved back to the beach further up the road where I had a nice swim in the Caribbean. After a quick shower, I grabbed my laptop and headed over to Thongs again for breakfast so I could use their free WIFI. After breakfast I headed back to Larubeya -- hoping perhaps I would run into Mark and find he was in need of a "first mate" to help sail his Hobie Cat. I also looked for Luke - the landlord- to let him know I wanted to stay in my room another night. But Luke was not around. I forgot to check on my room availability again and found out later that this was a big mistake!

Mark was attending to his beloved catamaran, and he told me that he had checked around and was unable to find any experienced sailors to help him out. I volunteered my services but told him that I had absolutely no experience with Hobie Cats. I told him that if he was willing to tell me everything I had to do I would be happy to comply.

Mark's Hobie Cat

I guess Mark probably figured I was a better alternative than not sailing at all that day, so he invited me to join him. After getting the boat ready to go we headed out at about 11:00 AM, and sailed the entire afternoon. The weather was perfect, the wind was ideal for a beginner, and Mark did a great job telling me everything I needed to do along the way. Hopkins sits on a nice bay with unrestricted sailing opportunities because the reef is about twelve miles out from shore. When the wind kicks up a bit those Hobie Cats really fly! Mark purchased his boat used some years ago and it is apparently a very special Hobie Cat. It is an 18-footer - which the company doesn't make any longer-- and was specially designed for speed. I had so much fun learning how to sail the Hobie that I did a little Internet research about them which will be the focus of my next blog entry. Mark and I sailed back and forth across the bay for the entire afternoon and after a while I was actually steering and getting the hang of sailing. Throughout the day Mark continued to give me tips and pointers on the operation of a sailboat. After experiencing the magic of the wind and... I came to understand how people can get hooked on this!

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end. After a fabulous day of sailing, I returned to Larubeya and found that three people had been waiting patiently all afternoon for my room! They had apparently reserved a room some time ago, and my room was the only one available with two beds. Rather than move my stuff and clean the room for the new folks, Luke and his cleaning lady had politely asked the new people to wait. As the afternoon wore on, I'm sure that everyone got more and more pissed about the situation. When I finally returned -- at about 4:30 PM as I recall-- Luke and his staff were pretty ticked but the new guests were surprisingly nice about it. They said their afternoon waiting for the room had given them a splendid opportunity to thoroughly explore little Hopkins Town. I guess I really lucked out as in most cases the people forced to wait for their room would have been ready to kill me! I hurriedly packed up all my stuff and cleared out my room so the cleaning lady could get everything fixed for the new guests.

The Scene of the Crime

Mark was kind enough to not only let me store my stuff in his room but also help me find a new place to stay for the evening. Mark mentioned a really nice place to stay at the south end of town called the All Season's Guest House owned and operated by his friend Ingrid Stahl. The only available room Ingrid had was a double and it was -- in comparison to the rooms I had been staying in since embarking on my adventure three weeks ago-- like the Four Seasons! I think Ingrid realized I was a "budget traveler" and that the room was slightly "overkill" for me, so without me even having to ask she offered a discount from the regular price of US$75.00 per night to US$60.00. Sold! I felt like a pampered tourist for one night for sure!

I found a local guy with a pickup truck back at King Cassava who helped me get my luggage several miles south to All Season's, and Ingrid also fixed me up with a bicycle to use for the evening. After providing me with the Hobie Cat experience for the entire afternoon and helping me find a place to stay for the evening, I told Mark that dinner was on me. He brought me over to a tiny place on the north end of Hopkins called Mavi's, where we feasted on fresh red snapper, sides and several beers for a grand total of about US$10.00 each. It had been yet another great day in Belize!

February 4, 2011 (Hopkins Town, cont.)

For our adventure on Friday, February 4, Kirby and I had planned to rent bicycles and ride about five miles from our lodging in Hopkins Town to the Sittee River and Sittee River Village. The bikes cost us each about US$10.00 to rent for the entire day. Since none of the nearby breakfast places were open at 9:00 AM, we decided to head out without eating anything first (oftentimes a dangerous thing to do). It was a hot and sunny day and the gravel road which connected Hopkins Town and the Sittee River Village was generally OK but in a number of places it was terrible. I have heard that Belize has a shortage of suitable rock crushers so oftentimes their gravel roads contain pieces of rock the size of grapefruits. This is particularly bad for bicycling because oftentimes the "grapefruits" also had sharp, jagged edges. For this reason, it is necessary to always be hyper-vigilent when riding a bicycle in Belize to make sure you don't run right over any of these sharp mini-boulders.

The ride to the river and the village was a real workout but it was interesting and pleasant. We pedaled by a lot of beautiful scenery and some interesting homes along the river. We stopped briefly at a place we had read about called Glover's Guest House-- apparently owned by the same people who own and operate the famous Glover's Atoll Resort I will write about atolls and Glover's in an upcoming post. The guest house is located right on the river and offered a number of river-related activities such as kayaking, boating and fishing -- but it looked pretty spartan. Sittee River Village didn't look like too much either, but it was worth checking out. Along the way we saw several billboards for grandiose real estate projects planned for the area which probably collapsed a couple years ago when fallout from the Great American Recession washed over tourist countries like Belize. We also met a really cool (and pretty) young Swedish girl named "Emma" along the way. Emma rents motor bikes (at what seemed to me to be very reasonable prices) to tourists who really want to explore Belize. We will meet Emma again in an upcoming blog entry. The ten mile round trip bike ride on the rough gravel roads on the fat-tired rental bikes was probably the exercise equivalent of a fifty mile ride on a decent mountain bike or ten speed back in Minnesota.

Since we had skipped breakfast, Kirby and I were starving when we returned to Hopkins so we dropped in at a nearly cafe called Thongs (which I had at first thought might have been the first strip club I had come across in Belize). Thongs was not a "gentlemen's club" afterall -- but they did serve excellent breakfasts AND they had free WIFI. Thongs was run by a very nice Russian lady named "Tanya" and our server was a sweet local gal named "Lorraine". My afternoon was pretty low key today-- some swimming at the beach and some Internet at a nearby "Internet Cafe". For dinner we visited Thongs again-- trying their spaghetti this time (not something you see too often in Belize) -- and for our evening entertainment Kirby, John and I had a few beers at King Cassava's followed by some stargazing on the Hopkins beach.

King Cassava's Courtyard During the Day

Kirby and John were getting back on the road tomorrow morning. After spending the better part of two weeks virtually joined at the hip- Kirby and I were going our separate ways tomorrow.The night was clear, and Hopkins has a minimum of lights at night. The result was about a quadrillion stars visible to the naked eye. It was awesome indeed.

John and Ronaldo Shortly before John's Departure

February 3, 2011 (Hopkins Town, cont.)

In my last post I mentioned that my friends and I were treated to a wonderful evening of African drumming at my new friend Mark Nunez's King Cassava Cultural Restaurant and Bar in Hopkins Town, Belize.

Mark Nunez and His Crew Playing Drums at King Cassava

The experience prompted me to do a little research about African drumming, particularly since their is a drumming center right in Hopkins Town. Lebeha Drumming Center was established in 2002 by drummer Jabbar Lambey and Canadian Dorothy Pettersen. Hopkins is a small coastal Garifuna community in the Stann Creek District of southern Belize. The goals of the center are keeping Garifuna music alive, passing traditional music along to young people in the community, and sharing music with visitors to Hopkins. The center’s focus is on traditional percussion music, though guitars have been donated and are also played. The young people who play and take lessons at the drumming center perform regularly, and in 2006, they recorded a CD entitled Traditional Garifuna Music played by Youth from Hopkins, Belize, published by Innova Recordings. The album was nominated for a Grammy Award in the Traditional Music category.
 

The center is based at the Northern end (Lebeha means "the end" in the Garifuna tongue) of Hopkins Village on the beautiful shores of the Caribbean Ocean in Belize, Central America. The center offers children, students (and adults) the chance to learn drumming, dance and cultural heritage of the Garifuna ancestors of today' Hopkins residents. The Lebeha Center is not a "therapeutic" drum circle. It is not the more commercial Punta Rock style (exemplified by stars such as Pen Cayetano and Andy Palacio), and none of the kids who get involved at Lebeha are forced to practice. If nobody shows up to listen or to dance, the boys play for themselves with just as much vigor as they would at a major festival. They carry with them the singular tradition that is Garifuna culture: a cocktail-shaker-full of African and South American Indian ingredients.

Garifuna instrumentsTraditional Garifuna drums, or garaones, are handmade of mahogany wood and deer hide. The drumhead is secured to the wooden body with cordage that is laced around the head and attached through holes at the bottom of the drum. These are tension drums; they are tuned by way of wooden pegs attached to the cordage that can be wound to tighten or loosen the drumhead. Additionally, these drums often have a thin wire or piece of fishing line stretched across the head in order to create a buzzing sound, an aesthetic which is common in much Central and West African music, and has been preserved in Garifuna music. The drums at Lebeha are crafted by master drum-maker Austin Rodriguez, whose workshop is located in Dangriga, Belize. There are two main types of drums used in Garifuna music: Primera and Segunda. The primera (or lanigi, “heart-drum”, in Garifuna) is the higher-pitched of the two, and serves to accent dancers’ movements. The segunda, or lufarugu (“shadow-drum”), which provides the beat for dancers. Sometimes a third drum, the tercera, or luruwahn (“third drum”) is the lowest-pitched of the three and serves as a bass drum. The presence of the tercera allows the Segunda to play more syncopated rhythms.

The drums are tuned by ropes on the sides and are then placed in the sun. The Primero drum is also called the male drum because it has been birthed from inside the larger female, carved from the same log. The Primero drummer and lead singer, or Gayusa, directs the musical changes, shows the greatest virtuosity, and calls the songs for the others’ response. The drums are played by hand and the trick is to be able to play fast while keeping the tone strong. The shakers or "shakas" used to accompany the drums contain seeds from a fruit tree inside a calabash gourd, and the turtle shells are exactly that, strapped around the player’s neck. There are no guitarists at Lebeha although guitars are often used in this style of music.


Additional Percussion Instruments Used by the African Drummers in Hopkins

 Traditional Garifuna music"Punta" is a traditional Belizean music and dance, often performed during festivals. This is the genre that has influenced the evolution of the popular music style punta rock. Paranda refers to both a Garifuna rhythm, and a musical genre that features Garifuna drumming, guitar, and singing. Lyrics in this genre are often nostalgic, and paranda is usually performed by men. One can hear the Latin/Spanish influence in this style of music.

Popular Garifuna MusicBelize's most well-known popular musical style is "Punta Rock", a style of dance music that combines traditional Garifuna rhythms with western popular music elements, including electric and bass guitars and keyboard.

Garifuna Culture
The Garinagu (or Garifuna people) now live primarily along the coast from Belize to Honduras and Nicaragua. A storm in 1635 in the Lesser Antilles capsized two sailing ships carrying slaves from West Africa; primarily from Rivers State, Efiks, Calabaris in southeast Nigeria. Those who made it to shore on the island of St. Vincent began to mix with the Indian settlers; the Arawak and Red Carib people, who had migrated from Guyana and the Orinoco River area of Venezuela. By 1700 the British, Spanish and French colonialists sought to use their land for cotton and sugar plantations. These Red (and now Black-) Caribs withdrew to the mountains and a century of guerilla warfare ensued. Their defeat came in 1797 on Yurumein (Garifuna for the island of St. Vincent) when their chief, Joseph Chatoyer, died in battle, and the British forcibly exiled 4,000 of them to nearby Becquia and Roatan Island, Honduras, many of them dying en route. Dissatisfied with these arrangements they let the Spanish take over the island and headed for the coast of Stann Creek, Belize, near present day Dangriga and Hopkins.
Their arrival up the river on November 19^th, 1832 (led by Alejo Beni, after finding themselves on the losing side of a revolution in Honduras) is now celebrated as Garifuna Settlement Day when reenactments of costumed musicians on boats kicks off a season of festivities in the area. UNESCO recently proclaimed Garifuna culture a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity,” though this does little to help the hand to mouth daily existence of the people. Tourism and escape to the U.S. offer some consolation and money but there are few opportunities for the practicing masters of the tradition; some of the finest elder musicians are now more conversant with a bottle of rum than with a drum. Into this mixture come the wildly talented Lebeha Boys with the enthusiasm and hope of a new generation.
　
Songs and Dances
Garifuna music encompasses what is known as Uremu song: voices with drums and other instruments, inseparable from dance. The only word in the Garifuna language for music refers exclusively to European instrumental music such as Quadrilles danced with violins and flutes.
1. “Welcome to the Party” sometimes known by its first line, “From Corozal to Toledo,” is the theme song for the Belize PUP political party but has become popular in its own right; illustrating how a composed song enters the folk tradition in such an oral culture. Here it has been reverse-engineered from its original amplified high pop style back into the traditional drumming format and incorporated as the first of a medley of songs. Towards the end each musician’s name is introduced and chanted in turn by the rest of the ensemble.
2. John Canoe (Wanaragüa) is a dance that tells the story of how Garífuna women, dressed in men's clothing, defeated a force of European soldiers at a time when their menfolk were afraid to go into battle. Male dancers honor the women's bravery by donning female attire, while the Europeans are represented by dancers wearing white costumes and masks. The dance is mostly performed around the Christmas period culminating on January 6^th (Dia de los Reyes).
The dancers wear a pink wire mesh mask, extravagant headgear, and knee rattles along with raggedy clothing and lead the musicians with a lumbering gait. This is the only time that dancers lead the musicians; generally the drummers take charge of stirring up the crowd of dancers.
3. Paranda is both the name of a rhythmic pattern for dancing and also a genre of solo song, usually accompanied by guitar. The song style originated when the Garifuna first encountered Spanish music after their arrival in Honduras, and the art of the Parandero is now hanging on by a thread. Paranda melodies are often incorporated into dance music too. A dance may end up using a string of composed songs of the leader’s choosing, hence the Parandas recorded here are identified by their first song. Parandas are danced with the arms respectfully behind one’s back, guaranteeing a grope-free social interaction.
Paranda: Malati Isien (Worthless Love) was composed by the legendary Gabaga Williams, now in his 80s. This is perhaps the most well-known Garifuna composition. Later in the sequence of Paranda songs comes another famous song, Naguya Nei (I am Moving On) by the equally treasured Paul Nabor.
Garifuna culture despises gossip and confrontational conflict so sometimes arguments are sublimated in the form of a song. Thus a family’s squabble or late rent payment may be enshrined for generations.
4. Gunjai is another dance rhythm (not unlike the African Samba) and it demands especially fancy footwork of the dancers.
5. In Garifuna history, the Spaniards, who attempted to take the Garifuna’s land and property, humiliated Garifuna women by describing them as unfit to serve in any capacity, sexual or otherwise. In retaliation, Garifuna women developed the Chumba dance to demonstrate that not only were they talented individuals but also sexually attractive people.6. Combination Dance features several Punta rhythms in succession (alternating with Hugu Hugu rhythms in contrasting triple meter) going ever faster and higher to energize the dance floor. This is a circle dance with unison (rather than call-response) singing and may be a secular version of the religious ancestor dance.
7. Paranda: Arabo. The lyrics of this Paranda begin: “Grab your machete, hold on to your sister, and let’s go to the farm.”
8. Punta, the most popular of Belizean dance rhythms, is danced by wiggling the waist with arms akimbo, chicken-like. Once the rhythm is set the dance can go on indefinitely. Although it has some affinity with the Afro-Caribbean Soca and Merengue dance rhythms the Punta is distinctive, partly because of the construction of the drums that feature buzzing snares (made from fishing line) peculiar to the Garifuna sound. The firework bursts of the Primero drum are heard to advantage here, displaying the ability of the drummers to play at lightening speed (bear in mind the fingers alone do not produce this speed, the entire hand is used — the whole forearm moves up and down that fast!). African drumming is also a great workout! You should see these guys' physiques!

The Local Kids Were Dancin' in the Streets during the Drumming Session

February 3, 2011 (Hopkins Town)

My first morning in Hopkins I awoke early (about 6:30 AM) and headed to the beach for my daily regimen of beach exercise. I walked about a mile south and then ran about two more before turning around and heading back to our hotel. I ran as far as you could go south of Hopkins before the cleared beach stopped and running (or walking) became a real chore. My run was followed by a nice swim. Except for a little sea grass, the beach was wonderful for swimming. The beach had a nice sandy bottom, and in the area in front of our hotel you could actually wade out for a distance of several blocks it was so shallow. After my workout I had a nice Creole omlette for breakfast. Kirby wanted to check out a little more rustic accommodation a couple doors down called Ransoms, but after looking at an available unit and finding it was super rustic -- for example the units had no screens on the windows - we decided to pass. Even the remote chance of ending up with malaria spooked both Kirby and me. During our first morning in Hopkins we also met a pretty cool fellow traveler from New York named John. He was on his way back from "deep" central America and had taken a number of very long and tedious bus rides. Among other details, John told us that - in his opinion - Costa Rica has become a nightmare. He heard about a great deal of violence and drug problems, and he said that hookers and drugs were virtually in your face all the time. I suddenly had no desire to check out Costa Rica next year. It is such a shame because just a few short years ago everyone said it was a great place.

Ronaldo with His New Friend John from New York

During the afternoon I met our next door neighbor, a super-friendly guy from Ohio who was absolutely fanatical about his beloved Hobie Cat catamaran. Mark and his wife originally sailed their Hobie in Ohio, then graduated to the Florida Keys, and have ended up coming to Hopkins for extended periods every winter. I am not sure how they work it our career-wise, but Mark mentioned that they have returned to Hopkins each winter for nine consecutive years! Hopkins is a very small community, and spending a little time with Mark made me realize that he knew practically everyone in town. I will discuss the amazing Hobie Cat is an upcoming blog entry.

Mark's Beloved Hobie Cat (It's an 18-footer which isn't made any more)

In the meantime, Mark showed me an amazing book about sailing in the Great Belize/Mexico Barrier Reef area which also contains several incredible charts. The book was written by a lady who was a captain in the U.S. Coast Guard and has been published in several editions. Mark was kind enough to allow me to bring one of the big charts to a digital center in the neighborhood so I could make a patchwork copy of the chart- about eight regular-sized sheets of paper which I taped together. It is an incredibly interesting chart-- showing pretty much each and every mile of the Great Barrier Reef and thousands of "cayes" located between Cozumel and Honduras. I cannot imagine how many hours-- and miles of sailing in the Caribbean--the captain dedicated to her labor of love!

The evening of February 3 I had a fabulous lobster dinner for about US$20.00 after which we were treated to an awesome African drumming session at King Cassava Restaurant and Bar. Mark Nunez, the owner of the bar, and several of his friends played outside the bar for several hours into the evening. The music was extraordinary and the drumming was really something to see. You just don't get this kind of experience up in Bloomington, Minnesota....

Mark and His Buddies Playing African Drums in Hopkins Town

February 2, 2011 (Hopkins Town Part 2)

When Kirby and I arrived in Hopkins on February 2 we checked into a nice-looking place near the center of town called Larubeya-- shown in the photo below. Each unit at Larubeya is a free-standing "box on stilts" and the units were certainly not fancy but were clean and comfortable. The first cabin we looked at was literally right on the beach (with an amazing view and breeze) -- but it only had one bed. We told the owner that we weren't THAT good of friends... We ended up "swapping" cabins with a nice gentleman from Ohio who had an adjacent  unit with two beds. All was good!

Our Accommodations in Hopkins: Larubeya

Hopkins is located at a very convenient spot along the Caribbean - with an absolutely stunning view of the sea,. Hopkins is near a number of superb land-based points of interest as well-- including nearby authentic Maya villages, a jaguar preserve, and the Maya Mountain Forest Reserve, and a real rainforest jungle. The two highest mountain peaks in Belize are only a short distance from Hopkins, in addition to the Mayflower Maya ruins site. Nearby Sittee River Village, a small Creole village just south of Hopkins, and the Sittee River, offer a number of activities including canoeing, boating, fishing, kayaking, and others at a number of places including Jaguar Reef Lodge. The Sittee River and the surrounding Caribbean reportedly offer some of the best fishing in Belize. There is bus service several times a day between Hopkins and Dangriga, but the main road to Hopkins is unpaved and the village has limited infrastructure at this point. There are a number of options for tourists interested in visiting Hopkins. At the main intersection where the bus from Dangriga drops its passengers each day-- and others (such as Kirby and I) are shuttled from the Southern Highway by a private vehicle -- there is a nice and authentic restaurant/bar by the name of "King Cassava Cultural Restaurant and Bar" owned and run by Mark Nunez, a lifelong resident of Hopkins. Mark is quite the entrepreneur and a really nice guy. He became a friend during our brief visit to Hopkins.

King Cassava Cultural Restaurant and Bar

Mark also operates "King Cassava Taxi and Guide Service" and the "King Cassava Apartments". Whether you want to fish, travel by boat to a nearby caye or to the reef to snorkel or dive, Mark can hook you up. He can feed you, entertain you with African drumming, and even rent you a place to stay. Directly across the street from Mark is another tiny but wonderful business that goes by the name of Barb and El's Taxi and Charters. El and Barbara were the saviors who picked Kirby and I up after we had jumped off the bus which runs between Dangriga and Punta Gorda. El and Barbara can arrange visits to Maya ruins sites, cave tubing, jungle tours, and dozens of other adventures.

Elwin and Barbara Posing by their Van

Mark Nunez and several of his family and friends are also expert in the ancient art of African drumming-- the subject of a separate upcoming blog entry.There's not a lot of "action" in the Hopkins area -- such as you will be able to experience in places like San Pedro and even Caye Caulker-- but the serenity and beauty it offers more than make up for the lack of nightlife.

February 2, 2011 (Hopkins Town Part 1)

In my previous blog entry I reported that my Canadian friend and I traveled by bus almost all the way across Belize today and finally arrived at Hopkins Town. The Southern Highway runs from Dangriga to Punta Gorda. For buses that do not make the 5 mile side trip to Hopkins-- which was our situation today-- you need to jump out at an intersection in the middle of nowhere and hope you can get a lift into town. Today Kirby and I were fortunate that El and Barb's van was waiting for us when we jumped out alongside the Southern Highway. After a short (4 to 5 mile) ride we found ourselves in "downtown" Hopkins.

This Homemade "Billboard" Welcomes Visitors to Hopkins!

This Is "Downtown"  Hopkins!

I found Hopkins to be a surprisingly undeveloped and rustic place. It is a small, unspoiled village of about 2,000 located about 15 miles (by road) from Dangriga. Both Hopkins and Dangriga are conveniently situated between Placencia to the south and Belize City to the north. Dangriga is at one end of the magical Hummingbird Highway which brings you directly to the capital city of Belmopan. Hopkins is largely unchanged since it first became a Garifuna settlement in the early 1800s, although it is starting to change at last (there is even an Internet cafe near the "central" part of town). The people are very friendly, and (as of early 2011 anyway) the area has (thankfully) not been developed extensively. The Garifuna comprise about 6% of the population of Belize, and are of mixed African and Carib Indian heritage. The history of the Garifuna is as interesting as is their rich and colorful culture. Even before the arrival of Cristopher Columbus, Indians from South America traveled by boat to the island of St. Vincent in the southeast Caribbean. The Indians conquered- and ultimately intermarried with -- Arawak Indians- adopting much of the Arawak language. The group that emerged from the merger went by the name "Kwaib", from which the names Carib and Garifuna (meaning "cassava-eaters") probably evolved. In the 17th century, slaves imported from Nigeria were shipwrecked off St. Vincent, and the Africans also mixed with the Caribs and Garifuna. Europeans originally -called them "Black Caribs". Below, Ronaldo is posing with one of the local Garifuna gals who works at Mark Nunez's restaurant:

Ronaldo with One of Mark's Daughters (Who Helps Out at the Restaurant)

For many years, the English tried to subdue these free people of color, but the Garifuna, with the aid of France, maintained their independence until the late 1700s, when both the Garifuna and French surrendered to Great Britain. In 1797, many of the surviving Garifuna were taken by ship to Honduras. Many Garifuna eventually moved up the Caribbean coast from Honduras to Belize, where they worked in the logging industry and settled in a number of villages in what is now Dangriga, Hopkins, and Punta Gorda. The Garifuna settlements in Belize appear to be poor, but beneath the poverty lies a rich culture and heritage. They have a complex system of religious beliefs, borrowing from both African and South American elements as well as Catholicism.

Other Americans who have visited the village of Hopkins regularly over the past decade told us that nine years ago there were no restaurants or stores in the village. For pretty much anything you needed you had to travel the 15 miles to Dangriga. Even back in the year 2000, however, the friendly locals were perfectly willing to bring you to a resident's place for a home cooked meal -- which you would be warmly served at a very reasonable price. Hopkins is located at a very convenient spot along the Caribbean - with an absolutely stunning view of the sea, sandy beaches, and easy access to a number of nearby islands or "cayes"-- including Tobacco Caye. The barrier reef is only about 13 miles off shore from Hopkins, but access is somewhat limited for travelers on a budget due to the much smaller number of tourists in the area (in comparison to the most popular cayes such as Ambergris and Caulker). The well-heeled can easily charter a boat with a number of "captains" residing in both Hopkins and Dangriga, but budget trips are more difficult to find. The beaches along the entirety of Hopkins -- which stretches for about six miles in length -- are sandy, great for running and walking and very swimmable. The areas I tested were shallow enough to stand for about the first 200 yards into the water -- with a nice sandy bottom and only a little "sea grass" to deal with.

The Gorgeous Beach at Hopkins